Wednesday, December 23, 2009
The Importance of Egg Sandwiches
The South West desert seems unpredictable in late November. In some ecosystems, scarlet leaves cling to life while others' only color comes from green yucca plants and black lava flows. Warm, 70-degree days fade into windy, 25-degree nights as soon as the sun sets behind the mountains, whose colors change from clay to rose to gold, depending on the light.
We spend the coldest night of the trip camping in Grand Canyon. We're layered in multiple pairs of socks, long underwear, jeans, fleece and winter coasts. We're trying to sleep, me in a 15-degree bag and Patrick in a 20-degree bag. But they're both unzipped so Ophie can climb in and won't freeze overnight. It's a long night, and in the morning, we can't feel our toes.
Sometime after the sun rises, I climb out of the tent to walk Ophie. We ran out of coffee yesterday (I didn't realize a small can of instant coffee makes 30 cups. I poured the entire contents into the press.) and we've only got cold cereal. As I walk the dog, who's oblivious to any discomfort, I look at the other campers spending their Thanksgiving week in the national park. They're bundled in beanies and gloves, eating warm breakfasts and drinking coffee, and they all look warm and happy. By the time I get back to the tent, I'm crying.
I wake Patrick up. "See that couple next to us? They're everything we're not," I say between sobs. "They're happy. They're warm. They have coffee. And they have egg sandwiches."
Patrick starts laughing, which makes me cry harder. "That couple?" he asks, pointing to the two sitting apart from each other at a picnic table. They're hardly kissing passionately while surrounded by steaming pots of coffee and breakfast sandwiches.
"We're OK," he says. "We're cold, but we're happy."
"No. I will never be happy again without coffee and egg sandwiches. Go to the market and bring back coffee and egg sandwiches."
Patrick points out that we're camping, in the high desert, and we don't know if there's a market in the park.
"Let's go sit in the truck and defrost our feet," he says. "Then I'll make you cup o' noodles and swiss mocha instant coffee."
Our relationship—and life in general—seems more optimistic after my toes have thawed. And after Patrick promises egg sandwiches and coffee tomorrow morning, instant noodles and dehydrated peas never tasted so good.
Tuesday, November 3, 2009
Pretty as a Postcard
The Great Scarecrow Festival
Monday, November 2, 2009
High Tide or Low Tide
The beach was great and it was very evident to see where the high extended up to. We threw some sticks for Ophie into the river that was running into the ocean, took some photos, did some rock collecting, and each enjoyed an IPA that we had packed out with. We made the long ride back and made a yummy dinner. That night we had a few drinks around the fire and laughed at some roudy neighbors who pulled in late and proceeded to blare Bon Jovi and Guns n Roses even later! We almost went to join them but a storm pulled in and we were both fighting a cold so we decided to close the book on that chapter for the night.
Saturday, October 17, 2009
Farewell Freedom Fries
The Sherpas of Toronto
Border Jumpers
The power of Niagara Falls is evident long before the mighty river comes into view. Mist rises like white smoke high above the trees, miles before we see the thundering falls. Also evident before the sacred place: wedding chapels, high-rise hotels, duty-free gift shops and casinos.
The Wells Fargo Express to Niagara Falls
The only upside: driving thru Buffalo at night, the city lights make it look like a charming city and the lighted bridges are beautiful.
Harbor Springs
Many good laughs and even better drinks were had by all. Jessica and I decided to partake in a local tradition and take the Buck Hunter Challenge! Having just spent several weeks viewing amazing and highly protected wild life we needed a release and Buck Hunter was just perfect. Remembering a shirt we had seen on a woman in Yellowstone which stated, "There's a place for all of God's creatures, next to the potatoes and gravy on my plate!" We pulled out the shot gun and had at it. I took down more bucks than Jessica did over the 5 different levels but she found her aim and had a perfect screen on the bonus turkey level killing all 30!! We all closed down the Knot and jumped on the boat for the 20 min. cruise back to Harbor. Along the way starring out at the water and lights on the hill sides I made up my mind that I wanted to sail around the world. I'm now accepting donations to make this dream a reality. Upon returning while we were tieing the boat to the dock I decided to show off and do a back flip into the lake. Other people said I fell off with all my clothes on including a polo sweater and Italian leather shoes. The jury's still out. What is certain is that my Blackberry doesn't like me anymore and my drivers licence picture now shows me with a snorkle and fins! The next day we BBQ'd ribs, watched a little football, and packed the car for the trip to Niagara Falls. We had a great time and we'll hopefully be back next year when the knee heals and we can wakeboard!
—Patrick
Twelvemile Beach Campground
We left Marquette for Pictured Rocks National Lakeshore, a vast wilderness area in the northeastern part of the UP with sandstone cliffs, dunes, lakes, forests and more than 40 miles of Lake Superior Beach. The park roads are dirt two tracks that were muddy and rutted from the recent weather and fun as heck! We were hauling ass with no one else around on the roads, happy to be far from any traffic. We decided to stay in an area with several campgrounds to choose from on a point overlooking Lake Superior. Along the way we found a small village called Grand Marais at the northern most point of the park that wasn't much more than a street but happened to contain Lake Superior Brewing Co. so we had to stop in and sample the local flavor of course. Jessica was able to get a couple tasty brown ales and I had a couple hearty stouts. The ambiance and scene wasn’t exactly charming but it was memorable. Old folks with bad teeth and at least one cigarette hanging from their mouth dotted the bar. Camouflage was the color of choice, and elk and moose heads stared at us from all sides. All and all, good brew and good times. We left there for Hurricane River just west of Au Sable Light Station on the point.
The campground we found 7 miles down this little dirt road was great but we decided that it was worth driving on to see Twelvemile Beach Campground. We ended up finding the most unbelievable beach camping ever! The lake looked more like the Pacific Ocean and the beach was sandy and deserted. It felt more like Baja than Northern Michigan and we knew we wandered upon something special! We spent a great night around the campfire and planned to stay for a few more days or perhaps the rest of our life. The next morning we woke to a strong northern wind blowing across the lake and a wind chill factor of "cold as shit" We decided that we'd leave paradise for another time and head for Harbor Springs. Here's the photos and all I can say is if you get the chance go!
Onward for Michigan and Old Friends
Driving north from Minneapolis we didn’t have a solid idea of what our plans were for the night and we didn’t really care. We were happy to be back on the road and charged up to see more good friends who we hadn’t seen for a while. Along the drive we went thru Duluth which isn’t all that representative except for a conversation Jessica and I had somewhere along the miles on the road. She said that if she could be named after any city it would be Duluth. I picked Phoenix. It’s not always the most interesting conversations that pass the miles we’ve found but sometimes they’re the funniest. On the way to the Upper Peninsula of Michigan we passed through Wisconsin (new state for both of us) where we saw the fall colors really starting to set in. The area is heavily wooded with picturesque farms and homesteads dotting the landscape. We spot a few bald eagles along the road sides and lots of small glassy lakes. We’re tipped to a great state park just inside the UP border but the weather forecast is calling for rain and we decided to camp after visiting with our friends Chad and Nancy who live not far from the park. Chad is originally from Michigan but was living in Santa Cruz and was one of my first friends when I moved there sometime around 2000. He’s a great guy and a dedicated Red Wings fan God rest his soul! Hahaha…
I’m surprised we’re still friends after all these years because while he used to be at work all day in Santa Cruz I’d get done with soccer practice and go over to his house and drink his beers until he got home usually only leaving one or two, ahhh the good ol' days. After a quick call we once again realize that we have great friends who are willing to go out of their way to accommodate us on our travels and it’s not a problem to show up a few days earlier than expected. They live in near Marquette, a cool little university town on Lake Superior. Again we pull in at night but this time early enough to catch the tail end of dinner. Steak and potatoes, SCORE! We meet Chaz, their 10-month-old son, for the first time—the cutest blue eyed boy around. We also meet another Stella who is their 2 year old dog and the biggest bitch around! Sorry guys if you read this!! : ) Ophie is constantly tortured by her and she starts several fights with our dog which kinda keeps the visit on high doggie tensions the whole time. We manage to keep them apart and enjoy the visit thoroughly. The next morning Chad, who works from home in many IT arenas, takes us for a hike around the back of his house which just happens to be hundreds of acres of great multi-purpose outdoor activity land. We hit a 5 mile loop that takes us by several lakes where the dogs swim and along a few mountain bike single track trails that look technical and great. Later in the afternoon we head to downtown Marquette which has a great waterfront and meet up with his wife Nancy, a local school teacher and one of the biggest sweet-hearts you‘ll ever meet, for happy hour I.P.A.’s.
Yes we do order I.P.A.’s everywhere we go!! Leaving there they take us for a drive along Lake Superior and to one of their favorite cliff jumping spots. The day is cold and breezy but I decided (more like get pressured by everyone) that I may not be back for a while and strip down to my boxers and jump! It’s cold but refreshing and by the time I swim in 100 yards or so my body feels it. We head back and Jessica whips up a great pasta and salad dinner and we have a great evening drinking wine and chatting it up. The next morning we decide to let them get back to their busy lives and get ourselves back around the campfire. We say our goodbyes and off we go. I’m really happy we were able to make it this far north to visit some good people!
—Patrick
Minnesota Nice!
There is a term coined by Minnesotans based on a warm friendliness and helpfulness that visitors find once inside the state's borders: Minnesota Nice. Upon arriving at our friends' house—Scott, Sarah and their daughter, Stella—we found out what it was all about. We pulled in late night as usual, wary from the long drive and were greeted with the feeling of coming home for the holidays. They carried our bags inside, put our bikes in their garage and had cold spirits at the ready. Mind you they had worked all day, Stella is only 16 months of super cute energy, and they both had to work early the next morning. We stayed up chatting about our adventure and life until after midnight and went to bed. The next morning we awoke to fresh brewed coffee, breakfast and the blessing to use all of their household amenities (laundry!) that we happily took advantage of. We’re still very grateful for the treatment we received from them and have scheduled an annual, visit which they haven‘t been informed of until now!
Scott arranged his schedule to leave work early and show us around the city during the afternoon. First, in what was becoming typical fashion, he made us some lunch and gave us some insight into his job at the University of Minnesota in the neuro-science department. Jessica got a heck of a lot more out of what he was saying than I did, and it was there that I realized I probably relate better to Ophie. So we went to chase squirrels outside and let them talk.
Minneapolis has 50-plus miles of multi-use trails that travel by three lakes and wind through numerous neighborhoods. We jumped on the bikes, picked Stella up from day care, and took a tour through about a third of the trail system. It was a beautiful late summer day and there were people everywhere. Couples out taking wedding pictures in the city’s rose garden, families sunbathing and swimming at many of the beaches along the lakes, rollerblades (yes rollerblades!!) are very popular in Minneapolis, bike riders both serious and recreational, runners, joggers, everyone…great people watching! We stopped half way through and let Stella look at the ducks and play on the beach while we had a local Oktoberfest brew. On the way back home Stella had a great time using her juice cup and snack jar as grenades which she would launch out of her bugger with great joy and accuracy. Luckily Jessica’s riding skills are up to par and she was able dodge them without harm. I don’t understand why more cities, whatever size, don’t embrace trails of this nature. Later that night Scott and Sarah invited some friends over, Scott made shrimp skewers, and we had local brews while listening to music and talked around their outdoor fire pit.
The following morning Jessica and I slip over to the store and we cook big breakfast burritos. It was a good chance to catch up with Sarah a little more and hear about her social work within the Minneapolis community. Her patients and kindness are big assets in what amounts to a very trying and tough job—most people only last 6 months. Jessica and I love her Minnesotan accent and we still reference its charm along the road now (sure, sure). They also tell us that Stella’s name came from their hippie past, which includes several stints following Phish and Scott working for the University of Iowa radio station where he hosted a Grateful Dead hour followed by a free-form music hour. Fun stories all around! Following breakfast Scott’s folks come and happily picked up Stella so we could tour around the city and then go out later in the evening. We start the adventure downtown along the Mississippi River and walk along the waterfront, explore some of the theatre district, watche a German Polka band and their very scary troll-masked dancing crew, and then sit on an outside patio and enjoy several drinks. Later in the evening we visit a great seafood spot with a fourth-story roof top bar and splurge a bit, meaning I had the lobster stuffed salmon at market price, opps! Everyone orders great food, and that all-to-dangerous one more drink. Afterward we hit up this really cool bar with a bowling alley and cabaret inside, and laugh it up over some local I.P.A.s.
Jessica and I are fully impressed, with not only our hosts, but the city as well and give it our stamp of approval!
The next day we get up early, pack up our gear, and head out for a local disc golf course with a great reputation. Scott and I play while the girls wall alongside and talk and take photos. Ophie chases squirrels. The course was challenging and we both had our ups and downs but play pretty good overall. We finish up, Scott gives me the local radio station to follow Brett Favre, the newest Minnesotan, and part ways a few miles down the freeway. We thank them for the wonderful time!