And we're back!! Sorry to those family and friends who thought we may have been swallowed up by the road, lets get on with it...In 1872 Yellowstone became the U.S.'s first national park. As we study the park map over our morning coffee we discover that not only does Yellowstone contain the greatest variety of natural treasures in the nation, It is very bike friendly and has miles of multi-use trails prohibited to cars. YES!!! At this point we're ready for a brake from our truck/home, which has taken on a funky smell that may be coming from us...Jessica thinks it's just me and the dog, the dog thinks it's absolutely heaven, and I know I'm probably guilty as charged but I somehow justify it as my "explorer scent." It's a short 12 mile drive over to Nez Perce Creek where the parks longest multi-use trail picks up so we break down camp quickly and eagerly get going.
Instantly Yellowstone embraces us with it's beauty and we feel like we've stumbled into heaven. We pull our bikes down from the top racks and do our best to clean the 6 states worth of bugs off of them, get our camelbacks loaded up, situate the truck for Ophie to hang tight for the day, and we start pedaling. Within a couple minutes we spot our first buffalo, it's quite breath taking that you can be so close to such a strong powerful beast and bask in its presence. The true symbol of the Great American West, proud and sturdy, useful and necessary...why we traded this native grazing animal for the the cow?? I think it was the mentality of the day: eradicate the Native Americans and their culture for a new society to take root. Throughout our travels I realize there is a thin line between being proud of American History and ashamed of American History. Across the same path that we're traveling today Chief Joseph led his people on the infamous Trail of Tears, reminders are scattered about...
The trail we pick up takes us away from the Nez Perce Creek and picks up the Firehole River, which meanders through the golden meadows of Yellowstone, rolling past the fire-scared trees of the '88 fire that redefined the landscape drastically. The forest has regenerated itself, and the park seems to not have missed a beat. None of the big landmarks were harmed and the herds of animals still remain intact. Throughout travels in all the national parks, we are constantly reminded that fire is a friend, not foe, and is vital to a healthy park system.
The 30-plus mile loop highlights the parks thermo-geologic pools and perhaps more than 100 of varying shapes, sizes, colors, temperatures and smells that line the Firefox River. Many of them runoff into the river that is teeming with life as is evident by the success of the the fly fishermen that seem to be everywhere in the park. Jessica uses the binoculars to study the landscape but I think she is remembering the movie A River Runs Through It (that follows the story of Norman Mclean) and is searching for his brother who was played by Brad Pitt!
As we continue down the the trail, a different side of Yellowstone emerges and suddenly we're riding in a peloton of insects. Thousands of grasshoppers dance off the fronts of our tires and, in many cases, jump right on us and hitch a ride for a while. It's evident from Jessica's shrills that several have tried to hitch a ride on her face. Also accompanying them are huge, bright fire red and orange dragonflies. There must be dozens of other varieties of flies but we weren't able to pick the brain of any fly fishermen to see what was biting on the river. Thankfully no mosquitos along the trail—and throughout the trip for that matter.
Off of the multi-use trail, we decide to stash our bikes in the trees and take a 4-mile hike out to Hidden Falls. It's an easy trail that really highlights the new growth over taking the fire-burnt areas. The falls are impressive considering that it's just a trickling stream above and below. The marsh area around the base of the falls is cool and refreshing, and we both dunk our heads in the stream before turning around and hiking out. While hiking out we realize that most of the people on the trail looked dressed more for the mall or disco than for walking in the park. Their discomfort and bickering gives us some good laughs, and before we knew it we are back on our bikes. Within minutes Yellowstone once again gives us a little thrill. We spot a coyote about 100 feet up on the trail and we ride quickly to follow its tracks as it ducks into a small meadow next to the trail. We pull up in time to see it stalking some small critter. Suddenly it pounces and lunch is served! We watch it finish the snack and then slowly move on balancing on a fallen tree and then ducking away into the bush. A very cool moment!
At this point we're just on the back side of the Grand Prismatic Spring. It's a huge, psychedelic-inspired thermal pool with multi-colored steam pouring out looking like flares burning at a South American soccer match. It's a little journey up and around back to the main entrance on the main highway which parallels the Firehole River again. Before the entrance, Jessica spots our first bald eagle (looking more like a teradactile) and I spot an Osprey hitting the water in front of a fly fisherman and some lucky tourists who just pilled out of a mini-van.
The Grand Prismatic Spring is on a one-half mile boardwalk along with the Excelsior Geyser Crater, which looks like a huge, tropical-water hot tub, only it heats at 160 degrees. This is definitely one of the most popular attractions in the park and has hundreds of people gawking at its unique beauty. It's fun to look at all of the license plates, and realize that as we head further east we are one of the few "dreaded Californians" out this far, which only reinforces that our decision that to embark on this epic journey was the right decision at this point in our lives.
Our amazing journey now turns to riding back to the Nez Perce Creek picnic area entirely along the highway, which we find is pleasant and, in our estimation, the only way to travel through the park. Beautiful meadows, small lakes, and more geysers line the miles and I'm very impressed with Jessica's poise the entire way, not only pedaling along single-track in the park but also dealing with 50-plus miles an hour traffic (the cars were probably not looking at the road) whizzing past us! For those of you who don't know: Jessica fell off a 60-foot cliff in Aptos' Nisene Marks earlier this year but has been fearlessly charging ever since.
Just about a mile before the end of our journey, we see Firehole Lake Drive, a small 2- or 3-mile loop road with a few of the park's hidden geysers along it. The afternoon has been so pleasant that we happily turn up the road to see what most pass without a second glance. There are several small geysers not unlike anything we haven't seen durning the day and then in true Yellowstone fashion we happen upon perhaps the best hidden gem of the day. The Great Fountain Geyser is about to blow and usually only does once or twice a year—if lucky. The hardcore photo geyser community sits loaded and ready for the show, and we stand closely by soaking up information, and realizing just how lucky we were to turn up this road. The geyser slowly starts bubbling and shooting 10 minutes before the climax of 80-100 feet spurts of steaming hot water that ahhh the simple on-lookers and satisfy those who have awaited the next eruption since last May. We leave with many great photos and an experience that we know the masses that visit Yellowstone every year seldom see.
Finally back to the car, hours longer that expected but more impressed and happier than we may have been anywhere along the trip we grab our PB&J sandwiches and Glacier beer (cheap stuff for sure!!) and bask in our glorious adventure. Never has a cheap meal tasted so much like that of a king's, and never have we needed to disobey the rules of not swimming in the creek with our dog applied more! I jump in first with an Iowa family looking on in disgust and attentive curiosity. With Ophie and I playing fetch up and down the creek, they look on like we're one of the main attractions in the park. Jessica at first is reluctant but slowly comes around until she finally sits in the creek and, with some urging, leans back and baptises herself in the waters. Her look upon re-emerging tells the story of the whole day... : )
—Patrick
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